Car rental in Portugal for exploring off the beaten path

[Poet of the Fall]

Most rentals get weird about taking their cars anywhere that isn't a highway. They write these agreements that basically say you can't leave pavement, and then you're stuck driving past all the good stuff. My buddy tried going into the hills near Évora and the rental place tried charging him for "unauthorized use" when he returned it with dust on the bumper. You need someone who actually gets that half the point of Portugal is getting lost in the backroads.